A Zimbabwe Wedding Story

June 20, 2019 was one of the best days of our life! Our wedding was more incredible than either of us imaged! We had a beautiful, stress-free day and we would do it again in a heartbeat! We 10/10 recommend eloping and having the ceremony be the way you want it. Even though it was fun-filled from sunup to sundown, it still went by too fast. We’re so grateful that we’ll always have Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe as our spot.

The Big Day

Kourtney left the backpacker lodge after breakfast to get ready at Bayete Lodge, our honeymoon suite, and Coons stayed behind with less whimsical accommodations. The girls came at 11am to work on her hair and the make-up artist arrived at noon. Sean, our photographer, arrived to take some pictures of Kourtney once she was finally in her dress and wedding-ready. Our driver, Absolom, had brought Coons to falls before Kourtney, so he enjoyed a beer while he waited (get used to it buddy!). Around 3:10pm, Kourtney was walking down the pathway passed the Livingstone statue toward Coons, who was standing facing the massive waterfall with a full rainbow overhead. What a magnificent sight!

No green screen here, folks!

The ceremony was short and sweet. Barbara blessed our union, we read our vows, Kourtney sobbed, Barbara handed us the rings and we said I DO!

“You may kiss the bride!” -Barbara

After we signed our marriage certificate and toasted with a glass of champagne, we walked around to different viewpoints to look at the falls for the first time while Sean snapped photos of us. It was so magical! Once we finished with those pictures, Absolom brought both of us to where our riverboat was waiting for a sunset cruise. We cruised the Zambezi river, enjoying drinks and snacks, while we chatted with Sean and he snapped photos of us. We found out that he would be at the same national park as us that weekend so we decided to meet up then to swap photos. We were able to see hippos for the first time along with some giraffes and elephants. Although not our family, they made for pretty fantastic company!

Look who showed up to our wedding!

When the sunset cruise was finished, we were shuttled to the Victoria Falls Hotel where we took some more pictures and then finally settled into dinner. Being off season, it wasn’t very crowded so we had the place to ourselves for a bit. Before Sean left we played our song on Coons’ cellphone and danced for the first time as husband and wife.

Our grand entrance to the Livingstone room.

During dinner, which was a fantastic three-course meal, a pianist serenaded us and we recapped our perfect day. After dinner, we retired to our honeymoon suite at Bayete Lodge and woke up the next morning for breakfast in bed. We decided we had to wait until at least noon before we started contacting family — surely some family would be up at 6am on a Friday!

In an attempt to make the day special for our loved ones, we recorded four videos: one to family, one to our would-be maid of honor/best man, bridal party, and finally to each other. Additionally, we took pictures and made videos during the day as we got ready. We contacted all immediate family first by FaceTime and then started letting friends know before we announced it to the world. This was actually quite difficult because not only did some people sleep in late that day (we won’t mention names), but the situation in Zimbabwe is difficult. We were dealing with little to no access to fuel, daily power outages, and limited access to WiFi in which to contact loved ones, so if you feel slighted in any way, just know we tried our best.

 

Did you have vows? Care to share them? 

Mrs: We did write our own vows, and we chose to focus on the “little” things we do for each other that make our relationship work. Some of them were funny and some serious. While we don’t want to share them all, I will share my favorite funny and serious one from Coons. He did promise me an English Bulldog named Rupert at some point in our lives, so everyone read it here—it’s happening! On a more serious note, he did vow to be my navigator and my compass. If this man is not napping, he is researching and reading about our adventures. He is so impressive in his ability to get us from point A to point B safely, in Spanish, whatever it may be. And I love him for that.

Mr: Alright, jumping right into the serious questions. Yes, we have vows, and yes, we wrote them ourselves. Like actually wrote, because Kourtney refused to be the couple looking at cellphones. These weren’t anything big or earth-shattering, rather they were little things we do each day and some of the things I love most about her. She vowed to always be my adventure buddy and go anywhere with me (see our wedding song below) and to always grab my butt, even when we’re old and gray. What more could a guy ask for!

Reading our handwritten vows.

Were there any wedding traditions in Zim that were different from a typical US wedding that you included in your day?

Mrs: People in Zimbabwe are very religious and so I believe ceremonies are probably similar to traditional Catholic weddings. However, neither of us are Catholic and we grew up with different religions, so we just wanted to keep religion out of it which Barbara was happy to do for us. I think one of the coolest things Shannon and Bernie included was African drummers and dancers dressed up in their traditional garb. So they really were responsible for the music — no quintessential “Here Comes the Bride” for me. That was different and wicked fun!

Mr: Excluding the majestic waterfall and picturesque rainbow? The fingerprinting and swearing in front of the magistrate was certainly unique, but in terms of the actual wedding, having the African drummers there certainly made sure we didn’t forget what continent we were on. Way better than some church organs.

Zimbabwe’s version of “Here Comes the Bride.”

Can you share the wedding dress drama?

Mrs: Where do I start….

So in Cuenca, Ecuador I started looking at dresses. However, Latin Americans love their massive ballgown style ensemble, and that is just not my style. Plus, Coons’ one request was to — how should I put this — accentuate my femininity. Luckily for me, it is typical for women to bring in a picture of a dress they love and the seamstress will make that dress. I had already scoured Pinterest, so I had an idea of what I wanted. I found a company online that would make my dress and ship it to me. The man I was emailing back and forth with was named Rowie, and let’s just say I never want to speak to another man about scallop necklines and sleeve length ever again. I got my measurements professionally done by a Spanish man who was appalled that I did not have and might not wear heels, so he insisted that I stand on my toes before measuring for length.

In Cusco, Peru the dress was supposed to arrive. When it didn’t, we called Lima where it was being held captive. Apparently, there is an import tax (I already had to pay more to ship to another country). We extended our stay in Cusco because Coons was feeling ill after Machu Picchu, so I paid and hoped that it would arrive before our bus out of town. It arrived the afternoon we were leaving on one of our night bus adventures. I was able to try it on that day with Yeoibom, a new friend from the Salt Flat tour, because we were hanging out with her and her husband, Dean, before we left. The boys went out for beers and snacks; Coons was NOT allowed to see the dress before the big day! The dress was huuuugggeee! Honestly, it was hard to love right away because it was so big. Either the measurements were way off or my travel diet was working seamlessly—I choose the latter.

For a month, we stayed in Cochabamba, Bolivia on wedding dress avenue. Not really, it was Mariano Baptista, but there were hundreds of shops around! I found a very feisty woman who would alter my dress and was on board for bringing it all in. I was worried I might not be able to sit down! The language barrier here was tough; it included a lot of gesturing and translating with her daughter to make certain we were on the same page. The frustrating thing about learning a new language is that while it might be easy to comprehend, it is often difficult to respond. So when my sassy seamstress was telling me to hit the gym and stop eating arroz and pan, I couldn’t retort and remind her that she was taking my dress in not out.

Then I had to fold that beauty up and throw her in a bag which would hopefully stay dry under a blue tarp in the wooden boat we took from Guanay to Rurrenabaque. I was just pleading with the universe to keep my wedding dress safe. While my gown remained untouched, I did not. The only bathrooms available were nature’s, and in the time it took me to relieve myself, which I did as infrequently as possible, the mosquitos had done their damage. It’s every bride’s dream to have the bottom half of her look like a kid with the chickenpox, right? I probably looked like a crazy person at this point as I was wearing long sleeves and a rain jacket in the freakin’ Amazon because I didn’t want the insects touching any part of my body visible in the dress. The Chimborazo hike was probably the most physically exhausted I’ve ever been, but this trip in the Amazon jungle was probably the most emotionally exhausted I’ve ever been. At this point, our wedding was two weeks away. I’ve been thinking I should write a short story parody about the whole ordeal.

The shoes I found in Bolivia, and the earrings I ordered from Etsy which thankfully made it to Zimbabwe, although some things I ordered did not like the headpiece. So I picked one up in South Africa where Coons rented his suit. The necklace was from one of my favorite shops in Portsmouth, and other jewelry on my wrist were just things I love that I’ve had for years including a special bracelet from my mother.

In the end, my bug bites cleared up, the dress made it to Africa unharmed and fit like a glove! It had all the things I love: lace, buttons down the back, and a trumpet style train. I’m also pleased to say that I paid for everything myself. I have never felt more radiant in my life!

Mr: I’m sure Kourtney has covered this extensively. My job was to try and keep her calm and make sure she had wine & dark chocolate when she got too stressed. Already crushing this whole husband thing.

It was all worth it for the dress!

Were there other locations you had in mind? How did you decide on the location?

Mrs: Yes! It was always going to be outside; we actually never discussed that, but all of our ideas centered around it. Coons was the one to mention waterfalls because he knows how much I love them. Sweet man! We thought maybe Iguazu Falls in Argentina, but South America is tough, for there is not a lot of separation between church and state. Neither of us wanted a church wedding, so it would require the legal ceremony to be at the court. Plus South America has a lot of different requirements that seemed a little extreme like a blood sample if you’re in Brazil — no thanks! We quickly realized that Africa is more chill, yet legal, which is exactly what we were looking for. We did have a discussion–what is the most bad-ass place in Africa? We decided without having been that Zimbabwe sounds wicked cool, and then realized that Zim has Victoria Falls, and Vic Falls is a huuuuggge waterfall. The fact that it is the largest in the world and one of the seven natural wonders of the world is a big bonus!

Mr: We looked at a lot of places in South America like Patagonia, Iguzau Falls, etc. but once we started researching the legal requirements in each country, we quickly cooled on the idea of a South American wedding. Blood samples, residency tests, and religious ceremonies were very common here and really didn’t fit with what we were looking for in a wedding. Once we turned our sights to Africa, and knowing Kourtney’s affinity for waterfalls, Victoria Falls definitely stood out for us. A quick Google search returned Pure Africa, the company that handled our wedding arrangements, and we were sold.

Hard to beat that backdrop.

How far in advance did you plan and did you have a wedding planner? 

Mrs: Coons did some researching and found the Pure Africa Elopement package in Victoria Falls which included a hairdresser, photographer, the venue, the ceremony, the minister, champagne toast, drinks and boat cruise on the Zambezi River, transportation, and dinner at the Victoria Falls Hotel. Shannon and Bernie were our coordinators and took care of everything! When we decided we wanted to get married in the national park, they set that up too (which cost a little extra but totally worth it! ). They gathered all the paperwork, organized the transportation, found a local to perform the ceremony, photograph the day, do my hair, etc. Shannon even organized for me to have maintenance on my dreads by Mabel before the up-do, all included! Fun fact: the women working on my up-do actually put a needle and thread to sow my hair in place! She found Angela to do my make-up for $50. They made everything so easy and relaxing on our special day! It was just incredible.

It’s difficult to pinpoint when we started to plan, because when we decided to go on this fun-employed vacation around the world for a year is around the time we thought eloping would be wild and exciting. Perhaps February? That’s when we were in Ecuador and I really started looking at dresses. However, everything was set in stone three weeks prior to the wedding.

Mr: This definitely came together over the course of the trip. We started talking to Shannon, our wedding planner, pretty early on in the trip about the possibility of a wedding there. She provided us with a list of documents we would need to make sure the wedding was official in Zimbabwe. Once we determined we could get them all and got Kourtney’s dress ordered in Peru, we knew we could actually pull it off there.

Not only did we get the ceremony, but we got a sunset cruise on the Zambezi.

What are the steps for eloping while abroad and getting a marriage certificate? 

Mrs: As I said, Shannon and Bernie really took care of everything, but there was a lot of documentation to provide just in case, and as always, the officials looked at none of it. We had visited a lot of U.S. embassies to obtain certified copies of birth certificates, passports, affidavits for marriage, etc. all at $50 a pop. There was a criminal record in there too. This was a big expense, an insurance policy, I suppose, but we could have saved a lot of money here.

The day before the wedding, we went to the police station in Victoria Falls to get our fingerprints done and submit all of our paperwork. There were five separate pages for each of us and required all ten fingers for each page! We did this out in a field as their office is a very small shack. Then we went into the building to submit and sign all of the paperwork. The rooms were so tiny, but the people were lovely and happy to have us, and it all went by smoothly.

After paperwork, we went to drop it off at the court where we met her magistrate, the big boss. We weren’t expecting this and were dressed for the 97 degree day which she found offensive. Sorry ma’am! She asked us to repeat after her and make some vows, and then we left!

Mr: One thing we learned was each country is very different. Some are easier for foreigners to get married, some make it very difficult. Zimbabwe was on the easier side which was a big selling point. We had to produce a lot of documents – certified copies of birth certificate & passport, an affidavit saying we were not currently married (no impediment letter), recent copies of our criminal records, and passport photos. This involved a lot of trips to US embassies in various countries as well as some correspondence with a lawyer in the US to get the criminal records. Had we planned it out more we could have gotten most of it done in the US, but alas, it’s more fun this way. Additionally, once there, we had to get fingerprints (5x sets each) as well as spend an hour or so at the police station and courthouse filling out other forms. But at the end of it all, we got our official marriage certificate!

One of the more random moments — 5 sets of fingerprints each out in the field by the police station.

Is the marriage legit? Who performed your ceremony?

Mrs: Our last stop the day of the 19th was to visit the minister of religion, Barbara, who would perform our ceremony. She was a lovely woman who presented us with the marriage certificate that we put our thumbprints on, but would officially sign the next day!

On June 20th, Barbara gave us a blessing that was a poem on marriage by Kahlil Gibran. And she also helped me surprise Coons with the exchanging of our rings. After the ceremony, we got to sign the certificate–me with my new name–right in the national park and it was official! We’re married!

One funny thing to mention is that our marriage certificate lists Coons as a bachelor and me as a spinster! HAHA

Mr: Too legit to quit! But yes, it’s legit in Zimbabwe. The US recognizes foreign marriages as long as it’s legal in that country, so it’s all official. We took a few steps when we went home in August to change Kourtney’s name and open bank accounts and our marriage certificate was accepted everywhere. We’re no long bachelor & spinster! Our marriage officer was Barbara who was provided by our wedding coordinator. She had a great Zimbabwe-style blessing (minus some religious bits we cut) for the ceremony.

Making it official!

So the rings were a secret. How did Coons react?

Mrs: Yes! He was shocked! I purchased them also from Etsy before we left in October and carried them with me through each country for eight months! He had no idea. One thing I made sure the photographer captured was Coons’ face for the “first look” and then his face when Barbara pulled out the rings. Both images are priceless.

The rings are engraved on the inside in Spanish, and they say “en la enfermidad y en la aventura” which translates to “in sickness and in adventure.” I connected this saying and our song into my vows to tie the whole thing together perfectly!

Funny story: Coons has lost so much weight (even with that big beard) that I had to contact the shop to make him a new, much smaller ring. We joke that now he has a travel ring and a U.S. ring.

Mr: Very, very, very surprised. Looking back, I should have known something was up because Kourtney never mentioned what we were going to do for rings at all. I had wanted to do those rubber/silicone rings but she was not having any of that. I had no idea she had gotten them before we left, although apparently I lost so much weight that my ring finger dropped down a size. Luckily we were able to get a new one made for me while we were home so it’s no longer in danger of falling off my finger. The inscription in Spanish inside was a really nice touch and fits us perfectly.

Coons reading the inscription for the first time.

How did you choose a photographer/officiant? Did you do a “first look”? Had either of you seen the falls beforehand or was that the first time? Your first dance was in a banquet hall – did you crash another wedding?

Mrs: Sean was our photographer and another local Zimbabwean. He, like all of the other wonderful people we met, was booked/taken care of by Shannon and Bernie. No stress.  We did do a first look that Sean captured perfectly! Coons’ immediately reaction from the pictures is probably “damn, you look fine!” And then he remembers it is our wedding and he’s on camera. The great thing about Sean is that he just let us enjoy the falls (for the first time), blending in the background and snapping photos. So we were really just able to take in every moment! I’ll never forget walking in to see Coons in that beautiful blue suit facing away from me and the magnitude of Victoria Falls with an enormous rainbow overhead. What a dream! Sometimes Sean was too good at blending in as we have a handful of pictures that none of you will ever see! Mostly of me crying/orating during my vows, Coons trying to figure out how to smile, and Bernie trying to coach us through “loving” poses.

We did not crash anyone else’s wedding! Haha. We had dinner at the Victoria Falls Hotel in the Livingstone Room, which is incredibly expensive, and the reason we did not spend the night there. Thank goodness dinner was included and it was off season, so it looks like we were all alone, but that’s just Sean’s magic touch. Although Coons has always had a way of making me feel like I’m the only woman in the room. We had a wonderful dinner while a pianist serenaded us and there we shared our first dance as husband and wife!

Mr: Wow – lots of questions in this one. Photographer and officiant were provided by the wedding planner and both worked out great. We met with the officiant, Barbara, the day before to go over the process and see what her blessing was going to be (we struck the more overt religious lines). Our photographer, Sean, just showed up the day of the wedding and really got some great shots. Our first look was me standing with my back to the “aisle,” enjoying the view of the rainbow over the gorge, until Barbara told me to turn around to get my first glimpse at my stunning bride. She was perfect. Sean got some good reaction pictures of my face as well. That was our first time seeing the falls and I think we’re both glad we waited. We ended up going back Saturday morning to walk the whole length of them and take some time to soak it all in (getting those dad jokes ready!).

While it would have been really funny if we crashed another wedding, we did not. We had dinner in the Livingstone Room of the Victoria Falls Hotel, an incredibly nice hotel overlooking the falls. Sean got some nice pictures to make it look like we were the only ones there, but there were a few other couples scattered around the room. There was a pianist who played for us while we had our first dance before our fantastic dinner.

First look!

What song did you choose for “your song” and how did you choose it? 

Mrs: Our song is by Passenger and it’s called “Anywhere.” I came up with a list of four songs that I really liked which I felt spoke about us and our relationship. I always listen to lyrics and Coons always listens to the beat, so I played each one on YouTube with lyrics, and he chose his favorite. I loved that he already seemed to know the words to this one when he listened! I’ve always enjoyed it. It talks about standing by each other through bad times and good. We like that this one is upbeat and focuses on adventure.

Mr: Anywhere by Passenger. Kourtney spent an unknown (at least to me) amount of time finding potential wedding songs and narrowing it down to her top 4. Then she sat me down and had me watch them with lyrics to see which one stood out to me. While I liked them all, our relationship has been defined by travel and this song definitely spoke to me. It doesn’t hurt that it’s fun and pretty catchy – while it may not be the ideal song to slow dance to, I think we can make something work.

Our first dance.

 

 

What was your something old, something new, something borrowed, and something blue? 

Mrs: My something old was a silver bracelet that my mother gave me which is engraved and says “loved” on it along with other miscellaneous jewelry which I’ve had for decades. My something new was the dress, earrings, necklace, headpiece, and shoes. My something borrowed was from Kristian. In true sisterly fashion, I borrowed a beautiful white beaded headband which I wrapped around my flowers to give them a little more sparkle! My something blue was a pin that I put in my hair that looks very old and Victorian. It has the outline of a woman in white with a navy blue background which I think my mom also gave me. However, I think my dreads ate it or it fell out because it’s still in Zim somewhere. I think she’d be happy a piece of her is in Africa.

Mr: I think this one is outside my area of expertise, but… the falls are old, but new to us, and my suit was borrowed and blue!

 

Thank you to friends and family for submitting/asking questions. We love you all very much. We’re going to enjoy married life and our extended honeymoon, and we’ll see you in February 2020! xoxo

Is it Possible to Overstay Your Welcome?

posted in: Adventure, Africa, Overlanding, PJ, Travel | 0

Pre & Post Wedding

We arrived in Johannesburg, South Africa the morning of July 11th and headed right to our hostel, the Westmoreland Lodge (little did we know… this would become our second home). This place was beautiful, safe, and so comfortable. Comfy beds, hot showers, and it served the best hostel breakfast we’ve had thus far on the trip (and it’s free!). We took a long and deserving nap, and then upon waking faced our reality. Our ready-to-overland vehicle fell through and we needed to be in Zimbabwe in exactly one week. We had expected to make our way to Botswana to look at cars but instead met with our new friends Mike and Alison, and we went through a game plan to check out a car (singular) that they had found in Joburg the next day.

The next day we met PJ. We didn’t expect to love PJ, but something felt right. We purchased the Pajero and started the paperwork to transfer the title in our name. In the meantime, we drove off the lot, outfitted it quickly with a rooftop tent and fridge at 4×4 Mega World, and started the journey to Zim. It really was a longer ordeal than mentioned here, but you can read all about it in our PJ blog.

Coons stopped at a very manly salon named Hines and Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge and got a hair cut and beard shape/trim (it was time!) before the big day and picked up his rental suit. Otherwise, we were at malls trying to buy supplies for life on the road. We hope to say that we visited more national parks than malls during our time in Africa, but at this point, it is heavily swayed in the latter direction. They really do have everything you need though: grocery shopping, hair salons, nail salons, outdoor gear, clothing stores, cinemas, etc.

We made it out of South Africa through our first African border crossing into Botswana which was pretty much a breeze. We had read about nightmare crossings that take all day and involve several bribes to police but didn’t encounter anything of the sort. This was great! Our Botswana drive was amazing and our campsite for the evening — even better as we were dining with elephants at their waterhole! We made it to Zimbabwe and had the most magical wedding either of us could ever imagine! All in nine days. We call that getting $h!t done!

We clean up nice!

After the mini-moon in Hwange National Park, it was time to head down to Cape Town to get Kristian! Roughly an 800-mile drive, this meant four days of driving 8-12 hours a day in the daylight, because of course, it is too dangerous to drive at night (rule number one of driving in Africa) due to the animals on the road and the numerous reported robberies — not to mention African drivers are not always the best.

You never know who you’ll run into on the road in Africa.

The morning of the 28th, we broke the rules and left at 6 am, thinking the sun would rise around 6:45 am. In the South African winter, the sun does not rise until closer to 7:30 am, but it was beautiful when it finally did. On our drive to retrieve Kristian, there were multiple rainbows, and Kourtney could barely contain her excitement. At the airport, we waited patiently for her arrival, but she did not come. Rushing around the airport, looking for intel, Coons finally realized that she would not be here until the same time the next day. We contacted Mark Kenney, a firefighter, to tell him the unfortunate news, and he informed us this was always the plan. To say that we were excited about her arrival was an understatement.

Kristian Comes to Africa

The 29th, the actual scheduled day of Kristian’s arrival, really felt like the start to our South African journey. No strangers to jet lag, we decided to keep her up as long as possible after her 36-hour journey. After dropping off our luggage at the hostel, we went to the V&A Waterfront for some lunch. There are tons of restaurants and shops all along the waterfront. We all especially enjoyed the food court which is a hipper version of Faneuil Hall in Boston. We booked a great white shark cage dive, although that never materialized due to some very uncooperative weather while Kristian was here. We kept waiting for the weather to turn, so perhaps we could see the top of Table Mountain and take the cable car up to the top, but the weather just stayed cloudy and rainy (the downside of winter in Cape Town). Determined not to let the weather get us down, the next day we went on a free walking tour of the Bo-Kaap neighborhood to tour the colorful houses heavily influenced by Muslim, Dutch, and African culture.

One of the most photographed places in Bo-Kaap for a reason.

We got a recommendation from our guide to try Cape Malay food at a restaurant on top of the hill and it was exquisite — full of spices and curry sauce with a variety of meat. We also visited a restaurant called Brownies & Downies, a restaurant that trains workers with FAS, Autism, and Downs Syndrome to help them get on their feet in the working world. Kristian and Kourtney support any organization that promotes brownies for breakfast. They are the best!

Best breakfast ever!

On Sunday, when everything was closed we decided to do our own DIY brewery tour. Microbreweries are just starting to pop up in South Africa — a lot of them in the Woodstock neighborhood. We visited Devil’s Peak Brewery, Woodstock Brewery, Shackleton, and Stone Circle Brewery (the latter on Monday). The beers were tasty, but we all really enjoyed Stone Circle because they encourage people to play board games while sampling their beer. We had a blast!

Card games & beer — Coons was in heaven.

After one cancellation due to weather, we finally found an opening for the ferry ride (the day before we planned to leave Cape Town) to Robben Island where Nelson Mandela was held prisoner during the apartheid era. The ferry boat was rocky, and in fact, the captain announced it would be the only trip that day (and probably that week). We toured the island on a bus and then went into the prison where we met our guide, Sopi (his name means “gift”) who was also imprisoned on the island during Mandela’s time there. We were able to hear his first-hand account of life under the rule of a malicious government and how the prisoners maintained their will to resist even in prison. We saw where he slept and also visited Mandela’s cell. This was an incredible experience as it gave us a chance to learn about South Africa’s history through the eyes of someone who lived it.

Our tour guide Sopi.

After our humbling tour, we headed down to the coast to the Cape of Good Hope. Unable to actually make it to the point before dark, we walked along the boardwalk past a lighthouse on the coast to watch the sunset. We stayed at a lovely Airbnb on the hill in Simon’s Town with an excellent view of the ocean. The next day we went to Boulders Beach where the penguins hang out. These little guys are called the “jack-ass penguins” because the noise they make sounds exactly like their donkey cousins. We watched them shake their tail-feathers, swim around, find their mates, and warm their babies.

There were hundreds of penguins on the beach and in the water.

Then we made our way along the Garden Route to the Garden Route Game Lodge; this reserve specializes in rescuing and rehabilitating wild animals that used to inhabit South Africa before everything was turned to farmland. We were upgraded to the Sunset suite which was baller. It had a shower and bathtub both inside and outside and a patio overlooking the park.

We hope Kristian realizes this isn’t typical Africa…

At dusk, we set out on our first game drive. Quickly, our driver Arnis spotted a cheetah and we sped off in her direction. Eventually, she charged a group of springbok who were able to disperse and escape her attack. We learned that the herd of zebras follow the cheetah to keep track of her movements so they are always aware of danger (how bold of them).

All eyes on the cheetah.

We saw buffalo, kudu, eland, and waterbucks. After a stunning sunset when night was fast approaching, we all saw our first rhinos of the trip! This mother and son duo were absolutely enormous but still gracefully chomping the grass. On our way out of the park, the hippos were getting ready to leave the water and also feed on the grass for the evening, and we got to watch them for a few minutes. We were dropped off near a huge bonfire with an outside bar where we enjoyed a cocktail. We were the talk of the town so to speak because a lot of people have been safari chasing to see a cheetah spring into action, and we got to see that the very first time we went out. We planned that, Krig! You’re welcome. We enjoyed a lovely buffet dinner where we got the chance to try ostrich and kudu. Once we were stuffed to the brim, Kristian set out to use all of the baths and showers. We wished everyone at home a Happy 4th of July before bed; another safari awaited in the morning.

African sunsets never get old.

The next morning the group met in the lobby for some coffee and tea before the Land Cruisers arrived to bring us out. Immediately we saw elephants munching on leaves in the trees. As the sun was rising we found a cheetah with her five little cubs. We watched them climb trees and wrestle each other while their mom was spotting their next meal. We set out in search of the lions who were sunning themselves. These creatures are absolutely magnificent! We were all just speechless. When we headed back to the lodge; it was time for a hearty breakfast and then we had to be on our way. We had a wonderful time at the Garden Route Game Lodge and appreciate their efforts to protect these beautiful animals.

These little guys look like honey badgers when running.

Now it was time for Stellenbosch, South Africa’s prime spot for wine country. We visited Annandale which had a wonderful port wine; the owner was a quirky man who didn’t seem to mind his dog running over the picnic table spilling patron’s wine. “Just pick up some rocks and throw them to keep him busy!” He told us to head to the famous Peter Falke winery and so we did another tasting as the sun was setting. We went out to dinner and then to rest up for another big day of wine tasting.

Peter Falke winery. Apparently, he makes socks too?

Rather than drive around or use Uber to get to different wineries, we found a hop-on/hop-off bus (Vine Hopper!) that stops at six different wineries during the day. They had scheduled pick up times at each winery during the day and you could stay longer if you wanted. They picked us up at 9 am and brought us to our first winery, Neethlingshof. By 9:30 am we were trying our first variety of whites and reds. The dessert wine here was scrumptious! Now we’re cooking with gas! The next stop was only for those “cooking with diesel;” it was the Van Ryn’s brandy distillery. By now we had picked up some late risers in the van and we all decided to get out because there was a lovely tour of the premise. They hand make all of their barrels and it takes a full day to make one! They only age the brandy in the barrels one time before they sent them off to a sherry distillery. The tasting came with a chocolate pairing which was Kristian and Kourtney’s favorite part. Coons got to sneak some of Krig’s brandy because she was not a fan. Next, we went to Spier where we had the most delicious meal of pulled pork, ribs, jalapeno poppers, and cheesy broccoli.

Nothing like a good feast in the middle of a wine tasting day.

We were rested and recharged for the next two wineries. Haskell had some whites that Kristian really enjoyed and then we all met up as a group at the last and final stop, Kleine Zalze. Sitting at a huge table, chatting with new acquaintances, we found out that two other couples were celebrating their honeymoons, there were two other nurses in the group, and a bunch of MBA nerds for Coons to talk to!

The next day was a very sad day as we had to drop Kristian off at the airport. It had been a whirlwind of a week and we fit a lot in, but this day came too soon. We miss you so much already, Krig!

The Garden Route

While PJ got some new shocks and a service, we were finally starting to see the sun, and that meant that we could finally climb Table Mountain. We accidentally took the most challenging way up to whip ourselves back into shape, which was a blast with its chains and bolts attached to the rocks.

Hiking with a view!

It was finally time to leave Cape Town for good. We had our sites set on the famous Garden Route which runs along the southern coast. En route, we finally got the go-ahead from Marine Dynamics to shark dive — sorry, Bug! — and so we stayed outside Gansbaai until the next morning. Shark diving was awesome! We were the first group into the cage; the water was sooo cold that it gives you a headache, but the adrenaline and the sharks passing around the cage kept us entertained for the 20-30 minutes we were in the water. For the rest of the time, we listened to a vivacious Mexican family take their turn screaming bloody murder while we watched from above. It was just as cool watching the sharks jump in the water for the chum as it was being in the cage. Up top, you could really appreciate just how big and powerful these sharks were — the biggest was over 12 feet long!

The ultimate killing machine.

After Gansbaai, we stopped at Cape Agulhas where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet and officially marks the most southern point in Africa. There was a huge topographical map of the continent that we had fun climbing on to locate all of the places we might go.

“Oh, the places you’ll go – Dr. Suess” — Michael Scott

The next morning we stopped just shy of Mossel Bay to hike via the St. Blaize trail into town along the cliffs overlooking the Indian ocean. We got lost a couple of times along the 14km (~8 miles) trail, but with the ocean on our right, we finally found our way to the lighthouse at the end of the trail. After a quick taxi back to our PJ, we made a stop at ShopRite (the only grocery store always near a liquor store) in the sketchiest part of town — unfortunately this was not the first time … we have got to stop going to ShopRite’s. We were on our way to Wilderness.

This coastline hike was a nice way to find our hiking legs again.

We stayed in Ebb & Flow National Park so we could go do a waterfall hike the next morning. Seriously, have you heard of a cooler name for a town (Wilderness) or a national park (Ebb & Flow)? The waterfall hike gave us a chance to use the new ND filters that Kristian brought so that we can capture that smooth water look with long exposures while not capturing too much sun. Coons really nailed it!

That photography course is paying off!

Once lunch was finished, we drove to Plettenberg Bay (known as Plett by us locals). Our campsite was right on the water which was beautiful but meant that we woke up to an even more saturated tent. Now on top of the outside of our tent being wet, the blankets on the inside were starting to become damp. We needed to get off the coast, but not before we completed a hike around Robberg peninsula to see the cape fur seals. There were hundreds of them! At the point,, we stopped for a snack and got to watch them jump into the huge waves. It was a beautiful day for a hike. After the hike, we made our typical tuna sandwich lunch and then drove to the next town.

The water and surrounding rocks were full of seals.

Stormsrivier is the final town along the Garden Route. We were finally in an area that was warm and dry for our tent so we popped it open in the hotel parking lot as we began our hike. We decided to end our Garden Route drive with the Striptease Trail for fun. It is a picturesque New England trail along the river with multiple little pools all named something different, some a little naughty. There’s even a bell before the last pool that you’re supposed to ring because it’s named the Kaalgat Pool (aka the stark naked pool). Since it was our honeymoon, we decided to follow directions, and stark naked and all jumped into that freezing cold water! Then immediately jumped out! Thank goodness no one rung the bell!

Honeymoon pool — one of the more PG pools along the trail.

Now we were on the road to make it as far as we could on N1 to Joburg … except that we broke down in this no-name town, Winburg, three hours shy of Joburg. Will we find an engine and continue our journey as planned? Spoiler alert, no, we did not (read about it here).

Drakensburg Mountains

Determined to get out of Winburg and not let our car issues derail the trip, we took a Citybug bus to Johannesburg to visit the Westmoreland Lodge again. They probably missed us. We decided to rent a small little white car and drive to the Drakensburg mountains so we wouldn’t miss our chance to visit Chris’ swanky log mansion. We had so much fun hiking during the day, cooking in the evening, and relaxing by the fire at night! Chris only mentioned one thing: don’t leave the door open even for a few seconds as the baboons will run right in the house! Even though they were adorable and practically knocking at the door (and climbing on the roof), we didn’t let them in.

We know Chris said not to, but we really wanted to let this guy in.

Our first hike was to a point named Blind Man’s Corner in Monks Cowl National Park. It was a hot walk up but the scenery was beautiful with the different colored landscape surrounded by mountains. By different colored landscape, we mean that some of it had been burned to prevent wildfires and some of the tall yellow grass was left. On our way up, there was this large rock formation that looked like a sphinx which was one of the more popular things to look at. The Blind Man’s corner was by no means a summit, but it just felt wonderful to be out in nature. Did we mention that we both had to get new shoes? After 10 months of everyday wear, our old ones were in rough shape. Coons was able to find the same pair of shoes at (you guessed it!) the mall, and Kourtney upgraded to a pair of Keens.

Our path on the way to Blind Man’s Corner — we feel bad for the blind guy!

The second day we drove two hours one way to the northern area of the Royal Natal National Park through the most awful town (full of speed bumps) to do the Amphitheater hike. However, the wind was whipping around 55 miles per hour, and they wouldn’t let anyone hike anywhere that day. We got a voucher to come back on Friday as we already paid the entrance fee, and we were on our way back to do the Rainbow Gorge hike much closer to the cabin. The Rainbow Gorge was beautiful, although not marked well and not correct on Maps.ME. It reminded us a little of the Narrows hike at Zion National Park with less swimming involved. We were able to take some trick photos too which is always a good time.

It’s not salt flat, but still fun to play with perspective pictures.

The third day we drove to the Injisuthi section in the central Drakensburgs which was a bumpy ride in our little Nissan Micra. Here there are ancient cave paintings and one particular set depicting a battle scene, which gave the Battle cave its name. We took a wrong turn and went five clicks down another trail through waist-high pointy grass (if you’re Kourtney’s height), but the end result was well worth it. There were paintings of women gathering, men hunting, rhinos, eland, buffalo, and more. These were created by grinding different types of rock into fine powders and mixing it with animal fat. We saw where the sun hits the rocks and is fading the paintings and where others are well protected under overhangs. While these paintings are difficult to date, the San people lived in this area somewhere between 40,000 and 100,000 years ago. It was such an incredible experience to see these caves where the San people recorded their history and pictures, acting as the first form of language and communication — thus we have the word “rhino” for that enormous thing with horns on its nose. Truly humbling.

One of the two battle scenes that gave the cave its name.

The next day was Friday and that meant it was finally time for the Amphitheatre hike, a switchback climb on pavers turned into a narrow (maybe 15 inches across) walkway along the cliffs of a mountain. We reached the chain ladders which filled us full of adrenaline and made for some pretty awesome selfies. At the top is supposed to be the second tallest waterfall in the world behind Angel’s Falls in Venezuela, but there was no water! Silly winter. We got some great views of the rock formation (Amphitheatre) in the background and Kourtney still got her kiss!

Panoramic view of the amphitheater.

We relaxed the next day to make the most of our time at the house, packed our big bags, planned our next move to Lesotho and our trip home to see family and friends. After a whirlwind week at home, we returned to Westmoreland to get our things, planned a stop-over in Eswatini (Swaziland), and headed to Winburg to put some pressure on Ian, the mechanic who had PJ for a month at this point. We got the car back from him and headed to Joburg to get a second opinion on it. Of course, the car broke down en route and we barely made it. Stuck in Johannesburg again, we tried to keep our spirits up by going to the mall to watch a remastered The Lion King in 3D and Hobbs and Shaw Fast & Furious.

National Parks

After spending a couple of uneventful days in Johannesburg, we decided it was time for another compact car adventure. We’re happiest when we’re looking for animals and Kruger National Park is perfect for just that! We were able to book camping reservations in Malelane Camp for a couple of nights. We got there just in time for the sunset; thank goodness we purchased some backpacker meals while at home, because without a fridge, our food options were limited. The ablutions (African for bathrooms) even had hot water on tap! We spent our days driving the park and our nights playing cards and listening to the hyenas howl as we fell asleep. We were able to spot four of the “big five” both days we drove which means we spotted our first leopards on this trip to Kruger. Buffaloes, elephants, rhinos, and now leopards. We only needed to see lions and we would complete the “big five” and on self-drives to boot!

The next morning we planned a route where others had spotted lions before we exited the park. At a particularly congested area, we thought we had found them. Trying to get a good look at what all the fuss was about, we both stuck our extremities out of the car window to get a closer look.

Well worth the fine!

Quickly, we were pulled over by park police disguised in a small white car like every other person there. She said the fine for both of us was 3,000 Rand, which is about $200 USD. Coons balked at that amount, so she asked “what can you afford?” We told them we only had 300 Rand on hand (about $20 bucks). After a quick conference with her partner, she said they would take that instead. And they drove away. Back in the mass of people, we realized that one of the officers still had Coons’ driver’s license. Struggling to get back through traffic again, we flagged down the first police car we saw. The woman stepped out of the vehicle and we said that other officers had stopped us and had our license. She immediately asked us if we paid a fine, how much, and where our receipt was. Damnit, lady, they took all the money we have so we don’t have enough to pay you too!

“Ma’am, please I just need my license back!”

She instructed us to follow another vehicle to the nearest camp. We figured he was radioing the officers and/or going to make us pay the full fine. On the way, we saw the original officers and flagged them down. The man walked up with Coons’ license. Clearly his secondary concern, he asked numerous times what we said to the other officer and was very relieved when we told him we didn’t mention anything about the money (not true, but we just wanted the license back!). We just want to continue our day, sir. Finally back on the road with the license, we realized they had turned around and were following us, and then they flashed their lights at us. Seriously. What. Now! The man walked up to our car for the third time and handed us back the money. He told us there is no “fine” and that he would let us off with a warning. Somehow the other female officer must have made it known she knew about their scam, and they returned the money. We just wanted to stop talking with the police and look at some lions.

After leaving the park, we stayed that night at a beautiful campground with panoramic views of the mountains and an infinity pool. We had the most delicious curry dishes and recapped what an emotional roller coaster the day had been. At this point, we were still trying to decide whether to stay in Johannesburg waiting for PJ or explore Namibia.

Sunrise in South Africa.

Namibia… No way.

Since all of our discussion centered around seeing the crimson red desert, we decided to be bold. We woke up early to watch the sunrise, got in the car towards Joburg to drop off one rental car from Hertz, rent another from Thrifty with entrance paperwork for Namibia, and drove as far west as we could before the sun went down. We made it to Red Sands Lodge which was a lovely campground with buffet dinners and fantastic WiFi. Coons was missing his fantasy football draft so he was able to FaceTime with some of the guys and watch a lot of the ridiculous Snapchats.

The next morning we got up early and drove five hours to the border. There we realized that Kourtney had overstayed her visa and was registered in the embassy database as an “undesirable person.” What this means is that once she leaves the country, she is not allowed to enter the country again. It’s looking like a year at this point, unless we can win an appeal. So, Kourtney is an illegal alien at this point — Marla will be so proud!

We explained everything. We arrived June 11th so were still within our original 90 day visa. Kourtney got a new passport when we married. When we were coming back through the South African border from Eswatini, it was extremely busy and the woman asked her two questions: Where are you going? How long are you staying? She answered the questions and she stamped the passport August 19th — we showed up at the border on the 25th. Unfortunately, we didn’t notice at the time and Coons didn’t get a new stamp since he was using the same passport.

There was nothing they could do. We could go to Namibia and not return to South Africa, or we could turn around and drive back to Johannesburg and return the rental car. Defeated, we took our passports back, got information on appeals, and left.

Sensing that all of Kourtney’s optimism had run out, Coons suggested we keep the car as planned and visit another national park in South Africa that borders Namibia and Botswana.

“Lonely Planet says it’s the best place to see big cats!”

So we went to McDonald’s for some comfort food, made reservations for the park, grocery shopped for more non-perishable foods, and headed north towards Kgalagadi TransfrontierNational Park.

This park is big cat central! Lions, caracal, and cheetahs — oh my! We did another two-day self drive where we saw lions each day and a pair of cheetahs the final day! We saw a male lion in a food coma moments after devouring an oryx. We decided to let another person drive us around one night and went on a sunset safari where we saw new animals we hadn’t encountered before. We saw honey badgers, foxes, owls, and rodents that hop around like kangaroos. The guide’s eye was impeccable! Safaris are definitely worth the information and knowledge. He told us about the giant bird’s nests that we’d been seeing in the region — ones that take down full telephone poles and trees! One type of warbler makes the nest with an entrance underneath which makes it a prime spot for cobra snakes to slither up and invade. So the warblers invite another type of predator bird that will hang out and defend the nest. How cool!

That oryx got mowed!

Feeling more refreshed, and pretty excited we finally checked off the big five, we headed back to our primary residence in Johannesburg with a big decision to make. Freek, our new mechanic, said he’s still waiting on head gaskets for the car and they should arrive by September 6th. Coons’ passport expires on the 9th. So we’ll stay in Johannesburg another week; we’ll blog, read, and keep ourselves busy visiting a couple museums, although looting and rioting immigration in downtown is keeping us pretty cooped up.

“And by September 9th, we leave South Africa with or without PJ.”

PJ In Africa Part 3 — The Saga Continues

posted in: Africa, Overlanding, PJ, Travel | 1

Just in case you missed them, you can read Part 1 & Part 2 here.

We arrived in Winburg on Tuesday, August 13th expecting to stay one night and be on the road the next day. PJ had other ideas. Our mechanic, Ian, discovered a water pump leak the next day and being in the middle of nowhere, no replacement parts were on hand. Unable to locate one in the surrounding towns, we contacted the company we purchased the second-hand engine from and had them order one. Thankfully, Mike and Alison were heading our way the next day and graciously offered to bring it down to us. Mike showed up the morning of the 16th with the pump and we delivered it to Ian — hopefully, this was the last component. Of course, there was yet another road accident requiring Ian’s attention (the downside to working with the only mechanic in town) and he wasn’t able to finish the car until Saturday afternoon, August 17th. What had we been doing all this time, you may wonder, while stuck in the middle of nowhere with no wifi, heat, or a shower? Thankfully, the room was equipped with a television that got 4 channels, two of which showed movies nonstop. While there were some lowlights (Spy Kids, animated movies, Beatriz at Dinner), we were treated to three different installments from the Step Up franchise (none of which were # 1 or 2), so not a total loss.

Mainstreet in Winburg — fun times!

Saturday finally rolled around and we sat in the room anxiously awaiting Ian’s arrival. Once he got there, we asked him how the engine was and he replied “Not good.” Greattt. We were still holding out hope of making one of the park reservations that Coons had made months ago. If we left then, we would have just made it to Sossusvlei National Park in Namibia, home to some of the largest sand dunes in the world. Rather than drive to Namibia, Ian suggested we head back to Joburg to get the car checked out by someone with a computer (you don’t have a computer?!) because the engine was misfiring and didn’t seem to have enough power. He assured us that we would be fine to make the three and a half-hour drive back to Joburg.

Resigned to the fact that we would not be making our reservations, we tossed our gear in the car and took off. Or tried to anyway. Coons stalled multiple times trying to back out and the gearbox was a struggle to shift. We finally got the car moving and headed to the highway. While merging, we noticed a significant lack of power. PJ was struggling to get any kind of speed and could not maintain speed in 5th gear up any sort of incline. This was not good. Determined to complete the drive even in 4th gear, we were cruising along for about 30 minutes until Coons noticed the engine had begun to overheat. We pulled over and popped the hood — the radiator was boiling and there was green fluid leaking from the car. Just what we needed!

We phoned Ian and told him what happened and he arranged for another mechanic who was close by to come help us out. Colin showed up after about 15 minutes with some water and got the radiator cooled down enough for us to follow him back to his shop. Once there, he and 3-4 other guys set about to diagnose our car. After a while, they noticed that the fan wasn’t properly attached and wasn’t cooling the engine down at all. They popped that off, drilled some holes in it, and reattached it to the front of the car. With that blowing properly, Colin and Coons took it for a test drive. The engine stayed cool, but he was amazed at how little power PJ was putting out. Back at the shop, they tested the engine coils and discovered that two of them were dead, meaning our V6 was now a V4. They said we would be fine to make it to Joburg, but we’d be going slow and guzzling petrol.

Mechanics hard at work in Ventersburg.

Back on the road again, we still had another three hours to Joburg and would not make it before nightfall. We were about to break rule #1 of Africa — no driving at night. We were determined to make our hostel and there was really nowhere to stay en route, so we decided to push on to the city. Any attempt at turning on the air condition led to the engine temperature creeping up, so we rolled down the windows for some natural ventilation. After an hour and a half of driving at 80 km/h (about 50 mph) on a major highway, the sun started falling and Coons switched on the headlights, or rather, tried to.

I know my eyes aren’t great, but are the headlights even on?

Turns out, no, the headlights were not on. High beams didn’t work either. We switched on the hazards and kept driving, hoping that we would make it without incident. We were pulled over once coming out of a tollbooth, but after explaining our situation she let us go, saying she hoped we made it safely. Around 7:30pm we finally pulled into Westmoreland Lodge and could relax.

To recap, we left  PJ with Ian for a month and now had a car with a misfiring engine, a gearbox that was incredibly difficult to shift, were missing one-third of our power, couldn’t use the air condition because the engine would overheat, and the lights didn’t work. What did we pay him for?! And the cherry on top — we tried starting it on Sunday because we were blocking someone in and the engine wouldn’t start! We pushed it out onto the road and tried to kick start it down the hill, but only succeeded in placing the car further away from the hostel. We couldn’t leave it on the street (people will steal tires, tent, etc.) so one of the hostel workers called her boyfriend to come help us out. We thought it could be the battery, but even with his new battery, we couldn’t start it. They towed us back up the hill and we pushed the car back in the parking lot.

Monday morning Coons was up early making calls. We knew we wanted to bring it to Freek (pronounced free-ahk) since his shop specialized in Mitsubishi and had been recommended by multiple people. We had actually talked to him a couple weeks ago when he offered to rebuild our engine, but we were hoping to get on the road quicker and chose the used engine. Big. Mistake. His shop recommended a guy with a trailer to come and tow us, and after pushing it out of the hostel lot and onto the trailer (who needs Crossfit when you have a car that won’t start?), we finally arrived around 11:30am.

About as close as we get to driving PJ these days.

Freek took one look at our engine and started going off about how this was the wrong engine and would never work and that no mechanic should have ever installed it in the first place. We contacted the shop we purchased it from and told them we would be returning it — thankfully we were within their 30-day guarantee window. Freek decided the next course of action was to get our old engine. We figured he would send someone down in a couple of days, but nope, he was going now. This was the mechanic for us! He dropped us off at the hostel and continued down to Winburg to collect our engine and the money that Ian owed us for the stolen items (oh did we mention, one of his guys stole some stuff from our truck?). Fortunately, we were able to return the used engine for a full refund.

All these engines, and none of them the right one.

Of course, Freek was able to get all of the original parts to rebuild the engine except the head gaskets, which proved to be in short supply. We grabbed another rental while we were waiting and visited two of South Africa’s premier parks and saw some amazing wildlife. Thankfully we had our camping gear so we were able to camp everywhere we went. Once we were back in Joburg, Freek still didn’t have the gaskets and said they wouldn’t be in until September 6. We started making calls and visiting shops, but everyone either had the wrong size or aftermarket gaskets, which wouldn’t last us very long.

So this is where we’re at, grounded in Joburg at the beginning of September, waiting for the head gaskets. Coons’ visa expires September 9th (Kourtney’s is already expired) and that is our line in the sand. If the car can be fixed and we can drive it out of the country by then, we will continue on our merry way. If not, we’ll have to leave the car and try to sell it remotely while we continue traveling elsewhere. Not the best options, but traveling in Africa has taught us absolutely nothing will go as planned (except our wedding — that was awesome!).

Countries Within Countries

Lesotho

Once we decided to visit home for a week, we had a couple of days to kill before we flew out of Johannesburg, just enough time to pop into Lesotho to snowboard at Afriski. We called Hertz to apply for a permit to cross the border with their rental car, but it was Friday and it takes two business days to process. So we decided since Africa is fairly lax with paperwork in general, we would wing it and see what happens.

So we arrived at the border and it was empty. This should be relatively easy! We got our stamps and the border security told us to pull the car up for inspection. And what was the first question he asked …

“Is this a rental vehicle?”

Ugh.

We told him it was and he asked for the cross-border permit. We told him that we applied for it and were waiting for the email. He said they only accept paper copies. So we said the phrase that starts it all which we learned from Trevor Noah’s book…

“Sir, is there anything we can do?”

In typical African fashion, he said he was thirsty and if we could help him out, he could get us across. So in exchange for a “drink” we gave him PJ’s registration which he put in the system. Coons gave him a sly handshake with 100 Rand (~$7) and we were on our way in Lesotho. After an hour and a half driving through Lesotho, we rounded the corner and saw a long strip of snow surrounded by a lot of dirt. We made it!

An oasis in the desert.

At Afriski, we were able to snag a couple of bunk beds in the Backpacker Lodge, and we made reservations for dinner at their Sky bar where they have live music every night. The food was great, the drinks were cheap, and the music was classic acoustic American. We were stoked for tomorrow.

We started the morning off snowboarding. The single trail they made was about a mile long and we hot lapped it on the t-bar until the afternoon where we decided to switch to skis. The weather was so lovely, similar to spring skiing conditions at home, and Coons went full tank top (one of his favorite things to do)!

Spring skiing at its finest.

As the sun started to set, we watched an overrated demo show over mint hot chocolates before our dinner reservations. At 8pm, there was a quiz night, so we teamed up with three South Africans to win it all! The South Africans were part of a bigger group that invited us back to their cabin to continue the party, and we stayed up chatting over snacks and brews like we were in college again. It was a great day!

Champions!

The next morning we grabbed breakfast and headed back to Joburg. We dropped our big bags and laundry off at Westmoreland Lodge for safekeeping and headed to the airport to drop our car and wait for our flight.

After our whirlwind week visiting friends and family, we were back at our second home, Westmoreland Lodge in Joburg. Ian, our mechanic, hit us with a phrase that was becoming all too common:

Your car still isn’t ready.

Eswatini

Still determined not to let the absence of PJ derail our trip, we rented another car to visit Eswatini. Fun fact: for their 50th anniversary of Independence in 2018, Swaziland changed their name to Eswatini which means “land of the Swazis.” This time, we did apply and receive a permit to enter the country – albeit after several hours at the counter on a Friday of a long holiday weekend. The border crossing took two hours longer than expected, and of course no one asked us for a permit this time, but we finally arrived at Legends Backpacker Lodge, navigating the last hour in Eswatini through the rain and thick fog.

In Eswatini we visited three parks: Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, Hlane Nation Park, and Malolotja National Park. The first nature reserve was close by and we did two small hikes where we saw zebras, springbok, and some huuuge crocodiles. We saw the warthogs cross our trail and they were so close to us!

What you lookin’ at?

The second day we ventured to the most popular park in the country, Hlane, to do a rhino-specifc game drive that had us driving around looking for white rhinos so we could get out and walk up close to them. We were the only two people on the midday tour and had the truck all to ourselves! After driving around for almost an hour, not seeing anything and getting a little worried, we came upon a mom and her enormous three-month-old baby. We nervously hopped out and followed the guide single-file to get a closer view. While they certainly knew we were there, they thankfully stayed put in the shade.

Thankfully it’s too hot for her to bother with us.

We hopped back in the truck for another five minutes before stopping to walk a little into the woods to find another set of three. All of a sudden we heard a noise behind us and looked back at the safari vehicle to see two more in front of the truck. We were surrounded! We slowly walked back to the rear of the car with the guide and got back into the car once the rhinos walked further into the woods. What a humbling experience to be so close to these humongous creatures. On the way back, we encountered a huge group of about 14 more rhinos, one of which was sitting right in the middle of the road. Once he saw us coming, he begrudgingly got up and walked over to the others, and it seemed like he wanted to charge us for a second. We left the park safely with our guide and then we did some self-driving where the coolest thing we saw was the marabou stork. This bird looked pretty menacing perched up tall in that African tree. The park must have been big because we didn’t see a single elephant, giraffe, or black rhino in the park (driving around in the heat of the day didn’t help either).

One mean looking bird.

The next day we left Legends and went to Malolotja. We walked 1,000 feet down in the hot sun to this two-tiered waterfall that wasn’t all that impressive due to low winter water levels and then all the way back up. We wanted to go to another set of falls but it was closed because of endangered species nesting, so we hopped back on the road for a much quicker border crossing this time.

We swear there’s a waterfall in there!

In total, we spent less than a week in these two countries combined, and although that wasn’t the plan, we think we did some of the coolest and most memorable excursions. This is now the fourth continent we’ve skied on. And we walked with white rhinos! Despite all the car trouble, we certainly have made the best of a crappy situation. It’s things like this we’ll remember forever!